Since Flying Fish took up residency in The Star on line casino closing November, its former Pyrmont waterfront place has sat empty.
But now the enviable -level Jones Bay Wharf area, with perspectives of the Harbour Bridge inside the distance, is home to Chuuka, a new Chinese-Japanese eating place led through two of this us of a’s most relatively appeared cooks: Sokyo’s Chase Kojima and Victor Liong, of Melbournian’s Lee Ho Fook (he additionally did stints in Sydney at Mr Wong and the now-closed Marque). Chuuka is the primary assets owned and run by way of The Star now not simply within The Star.

The menu meshes the cooks’ cuisines – Kojima’s Japanese and Liong’s Chinese – with Japanese elements and strategies used to make Chinese dishes. The concept has a few records, which has given the eating place its call. “Chuuka” were Chinese dishes added to Japan in the past due 19th and twentieth centuries by way of Chinese immigrants, which had been tailored for Japanese tastes.

Here that equates to a much lighter version of the candy and bitter dishes located right across China. There’s tempura-battered fowl coated in a sweet and sour yuzu sauce and then served with scattered dried chilli. The citrus and spice are ramped up. There’s additionally blue swimmer crab and scallop fried rice with Japanese XO sauce cooked Tenshindon-fashion, that’s Chuuka’s take on a Japanese-Chinese crab omelette on rice dish. A Japanese steamed egg custard, or chawanmushi, isn’t as mild – it comes with a steamed foie gras custard so it’s extremely good savoury, rich and no longer distinctive to consuming pate.

While the food is a mixture of cultures, Liong is cautious to name Chuuka a fusion eating place. “I experience that fusion is misunderstood and categorized as ‘horrific’ [because some] cooks and restaurants technique meals without an understanding of the cuisine,” he says. “They try and pressure substances and strategies collectively with out foresight and insight into the basics of cooking.”

That’s why the collaboration appealed to both Liong and Kojima. Earlier this yr Kojima instructed Broadsheet he became chatting to the professionals at The Star and said he changed into interested by taking on the wharf space and cooking Chinese meals. There turned into one difficulty, even though: Kojima hadn’t run a Chinese kitchen earlier than. That’s wherein Liong got here in. “I notion that, despite the fact that I wanted to prepare dinner Chinese food, my CV might look very weak while commencing a Chinese eating place. I idea it would be accurate to work with someone on that, and one individual I notion of was Victor … I right away knew this became the fellow I desired to collaborate with.”
And it most truly works – the dishes are exciting and energetic, matched well to the handsome, moody and contemporary space that’s been given just a mild refurb.

Flying Fish’s statement mild-bulb chandelier is gone, but the restaurant’s open kitchen, sashimi bar, personal eating room and outside bar remain. The shade scheme is darker and there’s now ground-to-ceiling work of art by neighborhood tattoo artist Deepak Munsami.
There’s a separate bar menu so if you want to are available in for a drink and a snack you could. The cocktail listing has been stimulated through the five Chinese elements: wooden, hearth, earth, metal and water. Wood’s a very good location to begin. It has barrel-aged hickory-smoked shiso umeshu (perilla liqueur), bullet rye and Campari.
“Daytime and night-time could have specific vibes,” says Kojima. “During the day there’ll be perspectives of the bridge, at night the song will alternate and there’ll be a different menu.”


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